New Bevelled-Waist Sole & Toe-Taps
We have just added an extra special option for all of our Goodyear Welted models – the fiddle-waist sole unit with toe-taps.
You may be familiar with this sole design but you may not know a lot about it.
The fiddle waist, also known as a violin waist refers to the narrow bevelled-waist aesthetic of these sole models. This is achieved by thickening the sole in it’s mid-point and gently tapering from the middle to the edges. This skilful shoe-making technique results in a beautiful bevelled waist.
This is an extremely time consuming process, as the shaping has to be precise and must match perfectly on each shoe so that one does not differ from the other. This is not easy to do, but when done well it is very much worth the effect that the detail provides for both the customer and the maker. It is a sign of pride in your craftsmanship and a sign of elegance in your shoe.
Closed Channel Stitching
When producing this type of sole unit, the stitching channels must be “closed” – that is to say that the stitching is not exposed.
To create a closed channel stitched sole requires real skill and a high level of craftsmanship. Firstly, a fine cut is made into the oak tanned leather soles. This cut needs to be the correct depth, not too deep yet not too shallow, approximately 1-2 mm. Once the cut is made the leather is moistened with water to make it easier to work with.
The flap created by the cut is then lifted up opening a channel, which is then ready to be stitched. Once stitched, the flap of leather is cemented and beaten down, giving a bespoke appearance.
Why the Toe-Taps?
The one area of concern with a closed-channel stitching stems from the fact that the small flap of leather may begin to lift at the toe area over the course of time.
Therefore we apply metal toe-taps to the toe which prevents this from happening.
So, now you know that toe-taps are not merely decorative!!
Where can the fiddle waist be found?
You can order the fiddle-waisted sole unit on any of our Goodyear Welted Shoes or Boots.
Choose to customise the design and then select the beveled-waist sole option.
We have made this addition to our options at the lowest possible price – each order with this sole unit will incur an additional £50 charge. This is due to the sheer amount of extra work required to produce these bespoke masterpieces.